The Holiday Tree Lighting Lights Up Once Again After the Outbreak of the Conflict

For two years amid the Gaza war, every festive public event marking the holiday season were called off within the city of Bethlehem in the occupied West Bank. This place is believed to be where Christians believe Jesus was born.

But, following a recent truce, the holy city decided that this year the festivities would make a comeback, as represented by the illumination of its customary, large holiday tree in front of the ancient Church of the Nativity.

"It's been two difficult years without celebration; no Christmas, no employment, no income," states the city's mayor Maher Canawati. "We're all living here on tourism and the tourist trade had fallen to zero."

He acknowledges that the idea of resuming celebrations was not without controversy, as suffering continues in Gaza – including for those in its small Christian population, many of whom have family ties to Bethlehem.

"Some may say it is unsuitable and others say it is fitting," the mayor notes. "But deep inside my heart, I believed that this was the right thing to do because Christmas must never be stopped or cancelled. This represents the light of hope for our community."

A Spark of Celebration Returns

Locals – from both Christian and Muslim faiths – take photographs before the tree hung with gold and red ornaments in Manger Square. They are accompanied by a small number of international visitors.

Brightly coloured lights now decorate the streets and there are signs advertising holiday markets and children's parties.

"We're very happy to see the tree, first thing, and to see foreigners in Bethlehem and to have the chance to celebrate Christmas in its true spirit," says Bethlehem designer Nadya Hazboun.

"This place is where everything began, therefore here is where we can convey a message to the world about what Christmas truly represents. And now, if the season is calm, then I hope it will bring a nice message for the whole world."

Economic Hopes and Difficulties

The neighbouring towns of Beit Jala and Beit Sahour also intend to light Christmas trees in the coming days. Local hotels – which have stood mostly vacant for two years – are seeing a rise in reservations from Arab citizens of Israel as well as certain international tourists.

One tourist from Russia, Angelica, is on her second pilgrimage to this region. "I think every person should visit at least once during their lifetime," she says.

"I wish a lot of people will return soon as it is sorrowful with few tourists. The sole aspect that's good is there are no lengthy queues – one can visit and experience more. When I came before you had to wait in a queue for a few hours at least."

For now, the souvenir stores scattered throughout Bethlehem experience scant trade, and outside the pale walls of the Nativity Church, which originate from the 4th century, tour guides are mostly unoccupied. Before the conflict, it was often crammed with visitors.

"Bethlehem is a tourist city; without tourism there is no life," expresses one guide Hamza. "We aspire to have people coming back as in the past: from Europe, the Middle East, America, Latin American and everywhere. We begin with lighting the tree, and we'll wait."

The Persistent Economic Impact

Over the last two years, joblessness has soared within Bethlehem. Since the deadly Hamas-led attacks in southern Israel during October 2023 which triggered the war, tens of thousands of Palestinian workers from the West Bank region have been blocked from entering Israel and its settlements to work.

At the same time, public servants have received just a portion of their salaries from the Palestinian Authority (PA) – that administers parts of the West Bank. The PA relies on tax revenues collected by Israel, which it is currently holding – to the tune of $1.76 billion, according to the UN's trade and development agency.

Israel says it is holding these funds due to the fact that the Authority provides payments to incarcerated Palestinians that incentivise attacks on Israelis. The PA – which has been under global pressure to enact reforms – claims it has lately modified its social welfare system.

A Modest Holiday

The grim economic outlook implies that for numerous Palestinian Christians, even though there are now public events in addition to religious services, it will be a subdued holiday season.

On the periphery of Manger Square, some patrons are waiting to purchase hot balls of falafel from several shops.

"We're preparing for Christmas following one of our hardest periods as Palestinians and as a Christian community," says one restaurant owner, who runs a restaurant called Afteem, a decades-old family-run eatery that has witnessed its revenues collapse. He notes that recently many families could not even purchase falafel – a cheap, traditional snack.

"The faithful will attempt to celebrate but according to their situation," Mr Salameh expects. "Someone who wants to take his kids to a festive event or a show or whatever, he doesn't have the money to expend on these celebrations."

Prayers for Peace and Prosperity

In the cave-like grotto beneath the church, a local woman follows a tour group from India, stooping down near a silver star which marks the location where it is said that Jesus was born and lighting a light nearby.

With tensions still high throughout the area, people in Bethlehem state they are hoping for peace – and hoping for visitors to return to the place where it is believed where Christmas started.

Brian Murphy
Brian Murphy

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