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When curating a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. But, situated prominently among these food titans is a modest salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their humble restaurant achieving such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary honour.